Sunday, 10 August 2014

Surprising Newcastle ... Part 1.

SUNDAY August 10th 
Newcastle/Hunter River........Part 1...
Pelicans on the wing to Newcastle. What a beautiful sight.
From Lake Macquarie it was an easy hop, skip and a jump, plus some sailing, to the coal port of Newcastle. On the way we spotted a lone whale having a lovely time tail slapping and, because we had time up our sleeves, decided to try and get a little closer if we could. Unfortunately, just as we'd decided that, a whale watching boat that had materialised nearby had the same idea and charged towards the hapless whale which then probably thought "stuff you" in its whaly ululations, and promptly buggered off. We did spot it again but again, so did they and again they churned the waters up in an attempt to get close. Finally the whale had had enough, took a breath and disappeared. Yeah, thanks to you in your big, scary peeny boat.


With the whale spotting ruined, we carried on towards Newcastle, a place that I wasn't expecting much from due to the fact that it's a coal town, and industrial. We entered the mouth of the Hunter River along with cargo ships, tugs and vessels of various size, speed and purpose. It is a busy port and so it pays to be on your toes.

The headland leading into the Hunter River/ Newcastle
Nobbys Head Light.
Fort Scratchley overlooking one of Newcastle's beautiful golden beaches
Christ Church Cathedral looming over the top of Queen's Wharf Tower - AKA The Giant Penis
Someone's idea of fun.... a deliberately lit fire along the river bank. I know this because I saw the guy light and run.
However, rather than heading straight up the business end of the river, we veered right and right again,  under the sweeping Stockton Bridge and into the river less travelled. The further we went, the more it seemed as though we were miles from anywhere as mangroves and wetlands hugged the river's edge. We found a quiet spot just past Smith's Island and near the mouth of Dunn's Creek and anchored in for a couple of very quiet days and nights.

Some of the entrances in the mangroves hid miles of creek. When we go back I would like to kayak down them
One word..... WOW.

On the 12th we upped anchor and ventured further up the river, just to see what we could see. We knew we couldn't go too far as the Hexham Bridge was in the way and so we dropped anchor again near Scott's Point on Ash Island.and lowered the dinghy. We felt like take away so we figured a dinghy ride to Hexham, find a shop... marvy. Along the way it became clear that this part of the river was an odd mix of industry and nature, with chimneys and cranes and wind turbines looking like giant steampunk flowers sprouting out from what seemed thick mangrove.
I would NOT like to be the owner of this particular boat. The pelicans LOVE IT!




Run down old jetty but home to at least one canny guy.
We pulled up alongside an old catamaran that was tied up at a daggy tumbledown jetty and clambered up onto the seemingly unsafe structure, watching out where we trod as some of the boards we missing. Upon making it safely to dry ground in what appeared to be a junk yard, we wandered off to find a shop but the nearest we came was a servo with a few stale looking pies and sausage rolls in the warmer. Close enough when you're hungry so we bought one of each and made our way back without looking around, since there seemed to be absolutely nothing to see except more junk yards. Back at the jetty we were greeted by a nice man named Phillip, and his big, boofy dog who had an obsession with chasing balls, sticks, rocks and just about anything that could be thrown. Phillip was the owner of the run down catamaran and he gave us several tips on how to live free along the river (on jetties and docks), loopholes to know to avoid the ire of the authorities, even getting to use facilities (where he was he had access to a workshop with electrical equipment and tools etc, which he was using to make the jetty safer and to work on his boat). He was a mine of information and his dog was adorable. Unfortunately  I didn't have my camera on me so I couldn't put the puppy's fluffy visage on the page.






















After our informative chat, it was back to Venture for lunch and then a bit of an explore on Ash Island, which is part of the Hunter Wetlands National Park where there were a few ruins, an old radar station, wetlands and a beautiful native plant corridor. The weather was cool and the walk was flat and easy, along wide, well trodden paths and roads. It all seemed lovely for the first couple of kilometres. We lingered at the ruins of a house and poked about at the radar station.





Little did I know that shortly this gentle jaunt would turn into a full blown trek across bog and fields, all because of a little 'funny wenting' by Dave when a wrong turn was made on a path. Winding our way through ever narrowing tracks through the trees, it was fairly easy to assume that we perhaps weren't headed in the proper direction and it suddenly became glaringly obvious that that assumption was correct when the path came out of the stand of trees and opened up on a huge area of.... not a lot.

 In front of us was what could only be described as a swamp, but was more likely a low wetland (of course I found out later that it was indeed a swamp and part of the Salt Marsh Rehabilitation).

Underfoot was spongy and obviously deeper than it seemed as each footfall caused a deep divot behind us that slowly oozed back into place once we had taken a few more steps. The thick vegetation that had woven itself into a soggy carpet was really the only thing that stopped us from sinking into the quagmire. We kept as close as possible to the tree-line as we had no idea what it might be like further out. We could see the water lying around but I, for one, was not going to risk going knee deep in icky boggy water. I'm not that adventurous.

After about ten minutes of trudging through the mire and silently wishing a curse of a thousand itches in the underpants region of Dave's person, we came to a fence and a road, which was just as well because mutiny was definitely on my mind. I tested the ground nearest the road and once I found it was solid, almost all was forgiven. Setting off on solid ground, it was only a couple of minutes before I found that coming the way we did was actually a good thing in that it had brought me face to face with a paddock full of really friendly cows who all came over when I called them. The swamp was almost forgotten as I chatted to the gorgeous beasts and was rewarded with many a moo for my efforts.





































 From there we found our way to the plant and wildlife corridor (thank goodness for Google Earth), which was filled with a lovely variety of native plants (I took many photos but just far too many to put here), all with descriptive plaques about their origins, what type of timber each tree produced (hardwood, softwood etc), what that timber or plant was used for and so on. It was a very interesting, if lengthy walk. From there we took a boardwalk through one of the many wetland areas until it came to a wide path alongside a creek.

The excellent board-walk (okay... steel-walk) :)
Just a bit more of that wonderfully colourful fungus


Just a tiny part of the wetlands on Ash Island. I wish I could have walked further.
An unusual sculpture under the ash trees.


A rare find... a feral hub from the genus Common Toyota Automobilus lying dormant in the undergrowth. This one appears to have been rejected by its parent and will likely not survive 
An absolutely gorgeous little Butcher Bird looking for a treat. This one was not afraid of us at all. :)
Nice toilets at Scott's point.
 














This was part of 'Scott's Walk' towards Scott's Point and Riverside Park. It was at about this time when it started to drizzle lightly but fairly relentlessly but speeding up wasn't an option as those bastardly knee goblins had begun to chip away at my knee caps after such a long trek, so slow and steady had to be the pace. All in all we had walked about 7km on dirt roads and paddocks, through swamps and wetlands, along tracks and boardwalks. It was nice to finally get back to the boat. In a couple of days we'll go to Newcastle proper but in the meantime....'oh my aching knees!'

Location: Newcastle NSW, Australia
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Lake Macquarie to Newcastle. Dawdling north under sail.

We left Lake Macquarie this morning passing under the Swansea bridge at 10:00am.  There was another yacht inbound (which had right of way) so we had to back off and do a lazy circle to let it through first.  Otherwise we only really had to worry about the herds of kayaks going out as well.
Sunrise in Lake Macquarie
 Once we got out over the bar, I put up the main with two reefs as we were expecting about 20 knots or so and we sailed slowly up the coast with the main and staysail only doing 2 to 3 knots or so in 12 knots of wind. It did pick up to 20 or so knots about lunchtime but dropped back to 15 in the afternoon.

We weren't in any hurry though as the trip is only about 10 miles and we were hoping to see some whales. In the end, we did catch sight of some humpbacks but it was quite frustrating (again) as we saw them about a mile away slapping the water and generally having a good time but then they just disappeared never to be seen again.

We had to wait for a coal carrier to come out of Newcastle and a large dredge to go in before we headed up the channel.  Newcastle looked very nice as we went past which surprised both of us for some reason.  We bypassed the marina though and headed straight up the Hunter river (North channel) about 2 miles and set the anchor in 2 meters of water just outside the channel.

Wind over tide has caused the anchor chain to go back under the boat so we might have a noisy night if it catches on the keel.  I'm currently trying to figure out if it's worth dropping the dingy to set another anchor from the stern to keep the boat in one position overnight.  One thing is for sure, if it does get noisy, it's not going to be fun doing that at 1:00 am in the morning.
Sunset in the Hunter River
 We're probably here until Friday now when the wind turns favourable again so we might spend a night at the new marina in Newcastle so we can have a good look around.

Terry has nearly finished the photos for Jervis Bay and Sydney so you should see a much more interesting post from her soon.



Location: Hunter Wetlands National Park, Kooragang NSW 2322, Australia
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Monday, 4 August 2014

Broken Bay to Lake Macquarie. Pittwater before dawn.

We decided to leave Broken Bay this morning before dawn.  Terry was actually up and about at 5:00 am and we slipped out of the Motor Yacht Club at 5:30 am in the dark.

The idea was to get up to Swansea (the entrance to Lake Macquarie) before 4:00 pm to make sure we could get into a berth in the lake before dark.  We both have an aversion to arriving somewhere we've never been before in the dark so leaving in the dark makes a lot of sense.  However, Pittwater is a mass of boats on moorings and marinas so it was quite stressful until the sun rose about 6:00 am.

We had to plan this leg quite carefully.  To start with, we wanted to arrive before dark but we also had a bar to cross and a narrow channel leading down to an opening bridge at Swansea.  The approach to the bridge is pretty tricky as the current in the channel can be upwards of 4 knots and our engine is only capable of about 6 knots flat out. And we had to arrive on a rising tide in case we got bogged in a shallow spot.

Sunset over Lake Macquarie from Pelican Marina
In the end it was a pretty easy run.  The motor was on almost the whole time as it was very calm after about 9:00am.  The lack of wind made it a bit rolly but the seas were low so it was OK.

We arrived at Swansea around 2:00 pm and we had arranged to have the bridge opened at 3:00pm so we picked up a mooring on the edge of the channel and had a cup of tea while we waited.  A Beneteau First 40 had overtaken us in the channel on the way down to the bridge but they just did slow circles upstream while they waited.

When the bridge opened we followed the Beneteau through and headed up to Pelican marina where we had arranged for an overnight berth.  We had to turn around and approach the marina from downstream as the current was flowing at about 4 knots but otherwise we had no problems.  Unlike the Beneteau which grounded about a mile or so further up the channel.  I didn't get to see much of it as I was busy driving into the berth but I'm pretty sure Terry got a photo or two.  The last I saw of them was the side and bottom of the boat as it appeared to be pushed sideways over the shoal by the current.  I would not have wanted to be in their shoes at all!  When I next got a look, they were upright again so I think they got back into deeper water.

We've already met some really nice folks here.  We've been offered the loan of a car by two different people at Pelican Marina and the local RSL club barman offered to drive us down to the Pizza bar as the RSL restaurant was closed.  What more can you ask for eh!






Location: Pelican NSW 2281, Australia
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Trippin' the lake fantastic (Macquarie that is!) and WTF Park


4th August …. Lake Macquarie

(Again forgive the random font size and colour... I'm still trying to work stuff out.)
 
The trip from Broken Bay to Lake Macquarie was a good one, as far as I remember anyway. The sunrise was gorgeous and the winds were favourable but choppy seas, a close 2-2 ½ metre swell, a rocking horse of a boat and yucky tummy induced me to pop a Kwell after which, as usual, I went back to bed for several hours (I have now conceded that I absolutely need some Paihia Bombs!!).
Approaching the entrance to Lake Macquarie.
When I awoke, the seas had flattened and the midday sun winked brightly off of the wavelets caused by the very slight swell that remained. In the near distance we spied a couple of whale spouts and fins but again they were too far away to consider following. Instead, we watched pods of dolphins that shimmied past going the other way and later on our attention was caught by several sun bathing seals bobbing about with their flippers and tails out of the water. Some floated alone, others in pairs or small groups that totally ignored out presence as we wafted past them.
A little closer to the entrance and a glimpse of the beautiful interior of the Lake
The more I have looked, the more convinced I am that it's a very large shark fin.

Approaching the entrance to Lake Macquarie, we saw a commotion near the shore as a white bellied sea eagle came too close to a seagull colony on a large,flat rocky island outcrop. Gulls flew up en masse, flapping and diving and screeching at the eagle which soared nonchalantly away from the feathered flurry. Eventually the birdie brouhaha settled down and the gulls went back to doing what gulls do when they don't have chips.
One very large sea eagle being told what for by a whole flock of not-terribly-happy gulls
A short time later we motored through the entrance, took up a public mooring and waited along with another couple of boats for the bridge to open. Time to relax, have a cuppa and survey the surroundings for a short time.
Through the bridge (I really have to wash the clears sometime soon!

When the green signal came and the bridge opened, we followed another yacht through, which moved off quite quickly ahead of us at a much faster speed than was permitted, leaving us to putt-putt through his wake. We weren't in any huge hurry as we were going to be pulling into Pelican Marina which was not far from the bridge. The channel past the marina was exceptionally narrow and shallow and so care needed to be taken in order to turn around and tie up, especially since it wasn't high tide. Luckily we were tying up to the T-head and even though it was shallow, there was still water beneath the hull, which made it easy. Once we were in and tied up, we looked around only to see that the boat that had shot off ahead of us had not taken heed of the low tide or narrow channel and had run aground. I know we shouldn't have laughed but the guy had acted like an idiot and karma is a bitch sometimes. He was able to move off when the tide came up but I'm pretty sure he was a little red faced for the hour or so he was stuck there, especially since there were quite a few small boats that went past him from within the bounds of the channel. :)
And that's what you get for being impatient, rushing about and not heeding signs.
We were greeted at the dock by Bill and Al, the guys who run and look after the Pelican Marina, both of whom live aboard their boats there. We immediately felt like old friends and that evening we were invited to wander along to the outside deck at the marina and partake of a few ales and wines, all of which was supplied by the guys. We also met another couple of wonderful people in Jeff and Shelley who also live aboard. Many yarns were told, many drinks were consumed, many laughs were had and it was the most fun evening we'd had in what felt like ages. We both went back to Venture a little more tiddly than we had been several hours earlier. We were also amazed at the clarity of the water and the amount of fish that we could see around the marina.
Pelican Marina at, you guessed it.... Pelican. It may be small but the people there have huge hearts!
Just a few  of the many hundreds of fish swimming around the docks and boats at Pelican Marina.

The following day we were in need of a few supplies and so lowered the dinghy and headed on over to Belmont, which was a good few kilometres away. On the way we could see why that yacht had become stuck. The water was perhaps at half tide as we headed over and the sandy bottom of the lake was clearly visible about a metre to a metre and a half below, and the narrow channel was a snaking band of darker water. As well as the sand we also saw an abundance of fish of all sizes and some small rays. It was actually pretty awesome but even in the dinghy we had to be wary of how quickly the water shallowed off in places. Though the vast majority of the lake was quite deep, it certainly seems that complacency has no place in this part of it. 
The airport at Lake Macquarie right near Pelican Marina




 




 

Another beautiful  view, this time towards Belmont
A little Willy Wagtail sitting on a stump near the entrance to Cabbage Tree Palm Walk.
A lovely little swallow sitting on our safety rails whilst we were in Pelican Marina
The most beautiful corals and sponges attached to the walkway at Pelican Marina.
 After a little onshore shopping and a great coffee, we made the return trip, this time detouring through the many moored boats, some of which were truly lovely. Whilst weaving amongst the vessels we were suddenly surprised by a seagull that decided we had encroached on its territory and proceeded to follow us, swooping and screeching and generally seeing us off. I'd never actually seen a seagull behave like that but I figured that one of those boats was the squat of a gull family. It probably felt quite superior when we left. :)
One very pissed off seagull giving us a good seeing to.
Dinner that night was at the Pelican RSL which was walking distance from the Marina. It was a really brilliant and obviously exceptionally busy club and the Chinese food was just mouth watering. I ate far more than I should have but it was a nice change not to have to cook. I then had a flutter on the pokies and won enough to cover dinner and a bit more so I was a happy Terry. :)


The next morning we decided that we'd best walk off the Chinese meal and so we visited the Cabbage Palm Tree Walk which is right behind the marina. The walk is a cool, green and thoroughly peaceful retreat from the everyday hustle and bustle and, even though you can hear the sounds of civilisation, it feels a hundred miles away. We were almost sorry to get to the end. Back at the marina we met two gorgeously cute little dogs (whose names sadly escape me) and I had a little pat and cuddle fest with them for a short time. Dave wouldn't let me kidnap either of them. 


Puppy pats and furry snuggles.


























In the afternoon we once again launched the dinghy and puttered over to Spectacle Island, a small sand island not too far from the marina. Though we didn't do a lot there, the views were lovely and getting my toes in the sand on the dunes was just lovely.

 

















































The following day at high tide we readied Venture to move on, left Pelican Marina and set sail for Pulbah Island, which is in the Lake. Even at high tide, the channel was shallow and despite trying to negotiate the deepest parts, we still touched bottom on a couple of occasions. It would be fairly tricky with a keel any deeper than ours (5' 8”) but not impossible because it's a soft, sandy bottom. Once out into the lake proper, it's a lovely open piece of water.

We sailed to Pulbah Island and by mid afternoon had pulled up a mooring. We were again amazed that, apart from a visiting maintenance boat with three or four crew aboard who were clearing lantana and other non-native vines from the island, we were the only boat there. Though it looked beautiful from the water, unfortunately Pulbah (or Poobah as we preferred to call it) wasn't all that spectacular. 
Dolphin in the Lake.
Moored in the peaceful waters of Pulbah Island on one of only a couple of public moorings.
When we went ashore, there were paths through the brush but many were choked with weeds or vines and so we ended up following a pseudo path that had been marked by the workers. We also followed the shoreline for a while which, if not for the rubbish that was along it, would have been quite nice. It's always disappointing to see that so many people are too lazy to take their rubbish with them. We stayed for 2 nights at Pulbah mooring before moving on to Wangi Wangi, which was made easy after we were told to look for the three chimneys.

Some of the garbage along the foreshore! :(

One of the better paths on the island
I am.... the moon!

























A friendly little chap





























































































Easing into Wangi District Workers Club dock was a doddle as they put us on a small T-head, making it easy peasy to not only tie up, but meant that we didn't have to stuff about trying to get around the back of the docks. It was also private, with no one walking past and with water as still as a mirror, it was perfect. The showers in the club left a little to be desired, having to battle between hot or cold water, with nothing in between, so it was a case of 'OwwwhothotHOT' and 'Ohmygodit'sfreeeezing' with the odd colourful interjection thrown in for the benefit of anyone within hearing distance. I'm sure the sudden temperature changes did wonders for my circulation.

The three chimneys. One of the landmarks on the Lake's edge.
(Above and below....)  A beautiful sunset over the Lake from the dock at Wangi Wangi.


After a dry off and a cuppa, we checked out the club and had for dinner the best wedges we'd had for ages. The whole time we were sat in the booth, a raffle was going on, and on, and on. It seemed as though almost every club member had won something by the end of it. The whole club had a really friendly, welcoming atmosphere and it was nice to just sit and enjoy it. Later on I once again had a very small wager on the pokies and walked away with $350. Not a bad investment for $20.
Named after Australian Artist William Dobell who died in Wangi Wangi in 1970 (LINK)

In the morning it was time to look further afield and so the bikes were unpacked, helmets donned and bodily joints tested for freakish weirdness. With nought but my normal niggly knee goblins present to give me any problems, we pedalled off along the foreshore bike track to the small shopping area for lunch before someone (who shall remain nameless, except that it was Dave) suggested that we cycle along to kind-of-nearby Lake Macquarie State Conservation Park, hereafter to be known as “WTF” (feel free to add your own interpretation to that abbreviation) Park. 
 
Feeling good before the trek from heck
Note the shorter walk... yeah that's not the one we took
 







It turned out that WTF Park was at the end of a very long, very steep hilly road, much of which we had to walk because the bikes have ridiculously small wheels for getting up slopes. On the flat... great! On inclines.... aaaaarrrggghhh!! We pedal/walked for kilometres before finally reaching the Park entrance. All okay so far, not overly tiring.... let's go.... along the shortest path only! Agreed? Agreed!


 Many hours later we emerged from the deep green interior after somehow ending up on the longest of the paths, with adjoining paths where there shouldn't have been and direction arrows absent from where they should have been. We had wandered hither and yon, up hill and down dale, along well marked paths and barely trodden tracks until we could barely walk another step. Every time we came to another unmarked junction a whimper of WTF squeezed out of my almost breathless body with the most vocal of moments being when I realised we had somehow walked in a huge circle. The only real compensation was that I hoped I was losing a little weight along with the gallons of perspiration that sprinkled the shrubbery surrounding me. Somewhere in that park is an unexplained green track of well watered plants. 

 
An Australian Wood Duck in all its ducky finery.

Another of those cute lorikeets.

A gorgeous little Silveryey.
Just another stunning gum tree. I just love the textures in these.




The sight of the bikes padlocked to the WTF Park fence was a welcome sight for sweat burned eyes. However, it was not yet over. We still had the return journey to make back to the boat, so a different road was decided on in the hope that it wasn't as hilly. Hopes were dashed when we rounded the peninsula past Wangi Wangi Park and found that, not only was the road hilly, it was much worse! It turned out that the round trip on from the club on just the roads, was over 10 kilometres, not to mention the many, many kilometres walked in WTF Park. Dave worked out through his phone tracker that we'd walked and ridden about 17 kilometres. We were well and truly F'd. 
The view across the lake during a rest stop in WTF Park.

One of the nice lake shore areas that surround WTF Park.

Finally back at the boat we didn't move except to go to bed. Next morning we left Wangi Wangi early in order to get in for a short time at Pelican Marina at high tide prior to leaving Lake Macquarie and moving further north to Newcastle.

We had negotiated the shallow spots and hadn't touched bottom on the return trip, so were feeling good about pulling in at the marina, except that the fast and furious tide had not yet finished with itself and we found ourselves caught in a huge eddy as we approached the marina. It was fast enough to jeopardise control and make our engines fairly useless for a minute as the whirlpool threatened to pull us in and dash us against the dock. Dave had to give the throttle all it had and do some fancy steering to prevent what could have been a really nasty time. Once we had finally tied up and our hearts had slowed down to a gallop, we relaxed until slack water and then made our way once again to the bridge. We will come back this way again because there was a lot we didn't get to do but as for exploring other parks? Well we'll have to wait and see. 


A daring young man in his flying machine just cruising over the lake.


Location: Lake Macquarie NSW, Australia
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Friday, 1 August 2014

Some video around Broken Bay

One of my favourite spots so far.  Broken Bay is deep water with lots of well maintained mooring buoys and heaps of bays and inlets to mess around in.

It's also the way into the Hawkesbury River but unfortunately, Venture is just too tall to get under the bridge.

We stopped at Refuge Bay first where you can pick up a mooring a stones throw from a really pretty waterfall.



We saw quite a few sea eagles in Broken Bay.  This pair was building their nest. 


Lots of small inlets and the creeks can go for miles.  We went at least 3 miles up Smiths Creek from the moorings.



At the end of Cowan Creek, there's a marina complex called Bobbin Head.  It's close to a park and all nestled in a beautiful valley with walking trails and shallow creeks fringed by mangroves.  We took the dinghy in there for a shower (best ever..) and fell in love with the place.  This is just the ride back, Terry will be posting all the pics and a much more coherent story :-)


The inlets and creeks are so deep here that we just had to try to get close to the edge.  Keep in mind that sail boats have a natural aversion to rocks and stuff!





Location: Ku-Ring-Gai Chase NSW, Australia
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